Opening this update is an outstanding Universal Gèneve medical chronograph dating to circa 1936. This watch is a remarkable survivor from the early period of wrist-chronograph production. The outstanding black gloss dial is specifically designed for medical use, with the outermost scale calibrated for pulsations, enabling the quick calculation of a patient’s pulse/heart rate when the chronograph is running. Pulsation scale chronographs are amongst the rarest of all vintage chronographs and the rarity of this style is enhanced further on the present watch by the black dial surface with its contrasting, silver coloured tracking and numerals which draw on the steel colour of the case.
The innovative and rare case design, with its curved stepped lugs and articulated shoulders, demonstrates the creative and imaginative flair of case makers during this early period of wristwatch production. Debate still rages as to which watchmaker produced the world’s first wrist-chronograph, but it is a title that Universal, amongst others, lays claim to. In 1932, Universal were one of the first watchmakers to manufacture a two pusher chronograph and, in 1934, they registered their ‘Compur’ trademark, the same model name as the present watch. Undoubtedly one of the most handsome vintage chronographs I have seen, this is a stunning piece of wristwatch history.
Shown above is a superb Tudor / Rolex Oyster ‘Elegante’ Ref. 7960 which dates to 1963. The watch is in spectacular condition with a beautiful silvered dial that has a soft, silky sheen. The Ref. 7960 is a slim Oyster model with a less pronounced profile than other Oyster models. This was in part achieved by the use of the Tudor calibre 2402 movement which has a movement height of just 3.6mm.
Interestingly, at the same time that this model was in production, Rolex was manufacturing the Rolex Oyster “Veriflat” Ref:6512, a model reputedly only available in gold and with very similar proportions to the Tudor “Elegante”. As the 1950s advanced towards the 1960s, slim dress watches were becoming increasingly popular. Clearly both the Tudor Oyster 7960 and Rolex Oyster 6512 were intended to offer the option of a classic model with a slimmer profile, yet with all the advantages of the robust and iconic Oyster case. This watch also has its original Rolex Oyster sprung link bracelet which retains excellent definition and has tight links and clasp; the bracelet model is 6635, one of the most desirable Rolex bracelets.
Pictured above is an automatic Omega Seamaster “De Luxe” Ref. 2802 which has a date of manufacture, around 1954. This watch has an especially rare cross-hair ‘honeycomb’ dial that is in exceptional condition. The creamy coloured dial contrasts spectacularly with the gold coloured numerals and hands and the steel case is sharp and well defined. This watch comes directly from the family of the original owner who purchased it at the Canadian PX canteen in Soest, Germany, in 1958.
Dating to the end of the 1940s is the handsome, mid-sized, Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch shown above. This watch has an attractive copper coloured dial with raised Arabic numerals and a finely engine-turned subsidiary seconds dial. The 1940s styling has a soft, rounded design and the manually wound movement is beautifully finished.
Another Tudor / Rolex Oyster just added to the website is photographed above. This Oyster Royal, Ref. 7903, dates to circa 1963 and has a silvered dial with multi faceted numerals. The fonts used for the signature, model name and movement detail are each printed in contrasting yet complimentary styles, which gives the dial an interesting and unusual appearance. An original catalogue illustration of the Tudor Oyster Ref. 7903, showing this unusual combination, is reproduced in: Isnardi, A., Tudor Anthology, Isnardi Editore, 2013, p.248. This watch has its original Rolex Oyster steel bracelet with sprung links and adjustable folding clasp.
Dating to the mid 1940s is the Omega Ref. 2391 above. This watch has the famous, manually wound, Omega calibre 30T2 movement. One of Omega’s most successful movements, the calibre is popular with collectors of the brand for both its reliability and durability. The watch has a stainless steel case with rounded, 1940s design. The silvered Omega dial has been professionally restored.
Last but by no means least is the classic, mid-sized, Rolex Oyster Speedking, Ref. 6430 shown above. This watch dates to 1970 and is an especially sharp and clean example of this classic model. The movement is a manually wound Rolex calibre 1210 with 17 jewels.
Our next update is due to be sent out on Friday, 20th February.
You can receive these updates by signing up here
Browse our current stock