Vintage Watch Update – 3rd March 2017 | 3.3.17

This week’s headline act is a rare 18ct yellow gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1514 wristwatch. Made in 1972, this watch has a very attractive and unusual, satin finished, caramel coloured dial. The signature and tracking is also in a complimentary creamy/caramel tone. Rolex used a uniquely textured bezel for its Ref. 1514, known as decor moiré, this is a decorative styling that produces a shifting, wavy optical effect that is specific to this Date series model. In excellent condition, this watch is accompanied by its original number punched Rolex chronometer guarantee paper and green Rolex box.

Next is a wonderfully crisp 18ct gold wristwatch by the International Watch Company. This 35mm diameter model is a Ref. 818A which was made in 1970 and has a beautiful satin finished champagne dial with applied gold indexes and a finely detailed, pearled, outer minute track. This watch was originally sold by the famous Zurich based watch retailer, Beyer, whose name can be found beneath that of IWC to the watch’s dial. To the underside of the top left hand lug, the Beyer stock number has been discreetly hand engraved. The 18ct yellow gold case remains crisp, retaining great definition to its angles, edges and the original crown.  Powered by the excellent IWC calibre 854B, the 25 jewel movement incorporates a hack feature – when the crown is pulled out to adjust the hands, the seconds hand will stop, thereby allowing accurate synchronisation to a time signal. This watch is accompanied by an IWC presentation box and is also fitted with its original IWC leather strap which shows only light use and retains its IWC gilt-metal pin buckle.

Next up is a fabulous, oversized, Tissot Ref. 6740 which was made in 1957 with a 37.5mm diameter steel and chromed case. The silvered dial has a fantastic lustre with strong two-toning and a combination of silver foiled Arabic numerals at the quarters and raised dagger indexes at the intervening hours. Chromed cases have a bright finish and can display, as in this instance, interesting yet subtle tonal variations as the light changes, from pure silvery tones to hues that have a hint of metallic blue. The case retains clean definition to its angles and edges, with a classically chamfered bezel and lugs which have a downward facet to their outer edges, there are light scuffs to the surface. A really great looking vintage wristwatch, this model is powered by Tissot’s 16 jewel calibre 27B-21.

Made by Omega just over 2 years before its presentation for bravery in 1949, this Ref.2394 wristwatch is typically 1940s in design with a rounded bezel and gently down-turned lugs to the case. The silvered dial has an elegant combination of silver foiled Arabic numerals and raised dot indexes. This wristwatch was presented by the Anglo-Iranian Oil Company (AIOC) to W. C. Roberts for ‘very brave action’ at the Abadan refinery on 27th January 1949 and is engraved accordingly to the outside of the case back.

Pictured above is a Gilde wristwatch made in circa 1935. The Alpina Gruen Gilde brand was launched in Biel, Switzerland, in 1929 and was a co-operative of watch companies formed to pool resources to maximise their productivity throughout Europe. Created during the period of economic uncertainties following the Wall Street Crash, the Alpina Gruen Gilde collective was disbanded in 1939. This pretty watch has a three-tone dial that is composed of a silk matte silvered centre, white matte rings for minutes and outermost edge with a high sheen silvered chapter ring between. The dial is signed Gilde to the centre and below the 6 o’clock position, the full brand is given: Alpina Gruen Gilde. The circular case has a flat polished bezel and satin finished down-turned lugs.

Acquired directly from the original owners, this 9ct yellow gold lady’s Longines wristwatch was made in 1973 and has a silvered dial that is fully set with raised Arabic numerals. The numerals and hands have blackened surfaces which provide a contrast to the dial’s surface and increase their visibility. The 17 jewel, manually wound Longines movement is typical of the company’s high quality vintage production.

Above is an Omega Genève Ref. 136.0102 which was made in circa 1974. Measuring 36mm in diameter, this is a relatively large sized vintage wristwatch. The stainless steel case has a satin finish and the contrasting smooth chamfered bezel is slightly recessed below the tops of the substantial down-turned lugs. There is some very light and minor minor spotting to the dial. The manually wound movement is a fast beat Omega calibre 1030 with the balance oscillating at 28,800 BPH. The winding crown is equipped with two settings – when the crown is pulled out to its first setting, the date can be moved either forwards or backwards by rolling the crown in either direction; by pulling the crown out to its second setting, the hack feature engages, thereby stopping the seconds hand to allow accurate synchronisation to a time signal. Pushing the crown back towards the case re-activates the seconds hand.

Don’t forget we have a great range of watch accessories, including our popular leather watch wraps and pouches, as well as straps, loupes, books and tools which you can find on our website here:

To automatically receive these updates via email, please select the ‘Join our Mailing List’ tab at the bottom of any of our web pages.