Vintage Watch Update – 2nd December 2016 | 2.12.16


Opening this week’s newsletter is a superb Tissot World Time wristwatch. Known as the ‘Navigator’ Ref. 4002, this model was first released by Tissot in 1951 and the present example dates to 1952. One of the most iconic and important vintage models produced by this watchmaker, the Tissot Navigator is a large automatic wristwatch with indications for 24 world locations. In 1930, Tissot had merged with Omega and the influence of Omega can clearly be seen in the calibre 28.5-N21 movement of this watch (see image below right) which is extremely similar in design, layout and finishing to Omega’s early bumper automatic movements. Based on Tissot’s first automatic calibre (the 28.1) which had been launched in 1944, the calibre 28.5-N21 was specifically made for the Navigator and featured an additional pusher which allowed the uncoupling of the central World-Time disc to allow the local time to be set.


The time is read in the usual 12-hour format against the outer black track, which has corresponding hour numerals to the bezel. This track is calibrated to 60 in the usual fashion and there are thicker batons at each hour (or 5 minute) increment. The inner revolving disc is calibrated in blue for 24 world locations which indicate their time against the applied gold Arabic and triangular numerals which are in 24-hour format. You’ll find a video demonstration of the world time set-up on this watch’s listing on our website. One of the finest examples of this model we have seen, the dial is in exceptional original condition and the case is crisp and unpolished.


Next is a handsome Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Chronometer Ref. 1500 which dates to 1967. This watch has a silvered, satin finished dial with applied baton indexes and elongated markers for minutes/seconds. An automatically wound watch, this model is powered by the Rolex calibre 1570. The stainless steel case is fitted with a riveted link Rolex Oyster bracelet with adjustable folding clasp. This watch is accompanied by a green suede Rolex pouch and, as part of its service, has been pressure tested for water resistance for depths up to 100 metres.


Back to Tissot and above is a rare date model, Ref. 6445, from 1949. The case is relatively large for the period of production, measuring 35mm and the strongly two-tone dial has a red date ring with corresponding red-tipped date indicator hand. Cased in stainless steel, the bezel is unusually scooped and the outside of the screw-down back has the script, Tissot signature.


Pictured next is a stylish Movado ‘Ermeto’ travelling watch. This piece dates to circa 1940 or perhaps a shade earlier. The silvered dial is in excellent original condition. In addition to the raised Arabic and baton indexes, the whole minute track is also fully raised. The blued steels hands are stunning and are rich in tone with unusual, bold, arrow-head tips. The shutters are leather covered and ‘automatically’ wind the watch when they are opened and closed. An ingenious piece of horological engineering, the Ermetos were a favourite of the artist Andy Warhol who owned at least 6 diferent versions of the model from a range of periods. Concealed to the case back is a hinged stand which conveniently opens up to allow the watch to be stood on a desk or bedside table.


Above is a smart Longines gold wristwatch which is hallmarked for 1964. This watch retains its original Longines branded strap and presentation case and is in lovely overall condition. A manually wound model, the watch is powered by the Longines calibre 370 which, like the rest of the watch, is in lovely crisp condition.


Another 1960s watch by Longines, this time a Ref. 7630 dating to 1966, is shown next. This watch has a silvered, satin finished dial and unusual multi-faceted losenge shaped numerals with arrow-head indexes at the quarters. The stainless steel case has a polished finish with a screw-down case back and the watch is powered by the Longines calibre 701 with provision for semi-quick date change.


Onto Omega and above is a 1973 Omega Genève Ref. 166.0168. This model has a bold stainless steel case with satisfyingly chunky lugs and case sides. The blemish free silvered dial has a vertical satin finish with applied indexes that have black inserts. Automatically wound via the Omega calibre 1012, the watch has a hack feature which is activated when the hands are adjusted and a second crown setting allows the date to be quickly advanced forwards or backwards when required.


The Omega Dynamic Ref. 166.039 shown above has a deep blue dial and contrasting light blue centre seconds hand. This watch dates to 1969 and is in great condition with a sharp stainless steel case with satin finished bezel, Omega crystal and crown. The watch is fitted with an unused, dark blue, Omega Dynamic branded strap and the original steel Omega pin buckle.


And rounding off this newsletter is a large cushion cased Omega  De Ville which, like the Dynamic has an unpolished case which retains superb definition. The immaculate silvered dial has a vertical satin finish and unusual square numerals with black inserts. There is a  long aperture for day and date indication. Dating to the very end of the 1960s, this watch is satisfyingly chunky and heralds the new era of the 1970s.

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