Patek Philippe Ref. 3245 made 1958
Vintage Watch Update – 29 January 2021 | 29.1.21

Patek Philippe Ref. 3245 made 1958

Patek Philippe Ref.3425 18ct pink gold made 1958

Opening this week’s newsletter is a superb lady’s 18ct pink gold Patek Philippe wristwatch. The watch has a striking two-tone dial with applied gold faceted indexes and matching hands. With a polished upper body and satin finished back, the pink gold case is fitted with a gold twin-strand, rope-twist bracelet which is joined by an adjustable, long polished clasp signed both by Patek Philippe and one of the watchmaker’s favoured bracelet maker’s: Gay Frères. Manually wound, the watch is powered by a Patek Philippe cal. 7”’70 movement which is beautifully finished with damascened bridges. This watch is accompanied by a Patek Philippe burgundy suede watch pouch and an Extract from the Patek Philippe Archives which confirms production of the watch in 1958 and its sale on 12 August 1959. The bracelet clasp is adjustable and gives a maximum length of approximately 172mm.

Omega Seamaster Chronometer Ref.168.023 circa 1969

Omega Seamaster Chronometer Ref.168.023 c.1969

Ref.168.023 is a relatively large vintage model with a case diameter of 36.5mm. The model features Omega’s excellent 751 automatic movement which is a high grade calibre produced to chronometer standards. This version of the model has an unusual, stippled, silvery/grey dial and, to its edge, the track for minutes/seconds is steeply chamfered, thereby creating a two-tone appearance to the surface. To the upper half of the dial the ‘Chronometer Officially Certified‘ designation is printed beneath the Omega signature. The large stainless steel case has a sunburst, satin finished bezel, the upper case is also satin finished but with bright polished chamfers to the edges of the lugs. There is provision for fast date change via the crown’s second setting.

Omega Ref. 196.0440 Art Watch Valerio Adami 046/999 circa 1987

Omega ‘Valerio Adami’ Art Watch made 1987

Following on from the Omega Art Watches published within our last newsletter, we have two more to add this week. The first is by Valerio Adami (b.1935) an Italian artist greatly influenced by the Pop Art movement. The upper case is made from a ceramic alloy while Adami’s medallion is set within a steel frame to the case back.

A bit of a nightmare to photograph as the silver text which surrounds the painting is mirror finished so disappears in different lighting – however it can be seen in detail in the second photograph above and Adami’s signature is shown below the illustration. A great looking monochromatic wristwatch, it is also large for a 1980s wristwatch with a case diameter of 40mm. The watch is powered by a quartz movement.

Omega Ref. 196.0440 Camille Graeser 821/999 circa 1987

Omega ‘Camille Graeser’ Art Watch made 1989

Also from the same Artists’ Watches series is the model shown above. This watch, also 40mm in diameter, has a case back panel with a design by the artist Camille Graeser. The bright colouring of the panels is typical of Graeser’s work and contrasts brilliantly with the dark monochromatic upper body of the ceramic alloy case.

Omega’s Art watch project was managed by Ernest Thomke the first CEO of the SME (Société de Microélectronique et d’Horlogerie), later re-named the Swatch Group, of which Omega was a part. Prior to this, in 1980, Thomke had been CEO of ETA and had led the project to develop the Swatch watch. The watch cases for Omega’s “Art Collection” were designed by Hans Zaugg using a new scratch-resistant ceramic alloy. Gerhard Saner, head of Saner Metallisation AG, Studen, designed the artists’ medallion for the case backs.

Jaeger-LeCoultre cal.P480/c circa 1954

Jaeger-LeCoultre cal.P80c c.1954

Mid-sized and mid-century, this Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch has angular, multi-faceted flaring lugs. The two-part case has a solid upper body with an integrated bezel that is stepped and chamfered. Manually wound, the calibre 480 movement is beautifully finished with decoratively damascened bridges. There is patination and light oxidation spotting to the dial as well as a small scratch to the sub seconds dial and a small scratch between 10 and 11 o’clock.

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