Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref. 16030 circa 1985 | a steel automatic vintage wristwatch with date
Vintage Watch Update – 29 April 2022 | 29.4.22

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref. 16030 circa 1985 | a steel automatic vintage wristwatch with date

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref.16030 c.1985 | Steel

Rolex first introduced the Ref.16030 Datejust in 1977 and the model was manufactured with the automatically wound Rolex calibre 3035 movement until 1988. The classic design has made it a popular model for collectors and watch enthusiasts alike and it is especially favoured for its quick date change facility. The movement also features a hack feature which will stop the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out to adjust the time, thereby allowing easy synchronisation to a time signal. The dial is in excellent original condition with impeccable lustre to the surface and full lume plots. During servicing the steel case has been re-polished and there are some scuffs and scratches still visible to the outside case back.

Ebel 'Lemania 27' circa 1950 | steel vintage chronograph wristwatch

Ebel ‘Lemania 27’ c.1950 | Steel

With a fantastic two-tone dial and incorporating one of the finest Swiss chronograph calibres, this is an excellent vintage Ebel wristwatch. Like many watchmakers, Ebel used specialist ‘complication’ movement manufacturers for their chronograph mechanisms. In this instance, the movement is the legendary Lemania calibre 27 used by, among others, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and Omega. All these watchmakers finished the cal. 27 to their own specifications.

The dial is in very attractive condition with a silvered surface and a beautifully finished high sheen track for minutes/chronograph seconds. The numerals have a pink gilded metallic finish and the outer tachymetric scale is calibrated in red. The quality and shaping of the steel case is also noteworthy. The watch has a particularly sleek profile view, in part achieved by the domed case back which allows for a relatively slim main case body. There’s a subtle rounding to the whole design of the case which is most pronounced in the polished convex bezel (the rest of the case is satin finished) and continues through to the subtle, slight rounding to the outer edges of the chronograph pushers, case sides and lugs.

Omega Ref. 928 hallmarked 1959 | 9ct gold manually wound vintage wristwatch

Omega Ref.928 Hallmarked 1959 | 9ct Gold

This handsome Omega model has a 9ct gold case with stepped, downturned lugs. The dial, which is fully set with applied gold Arabic numerals, has a warm and even patina and retains a good lustre to the surface. The watch has been re-polished in the past and has a gold plated Omega pin buckle which we have fitted to a new Hirsch ‘Duke’ strap.

Longines / West End Watch Co., Ref. 5159 'Bijou' invoiced 1944 | steel mid-size vintage manually wound wristwatch

Longines/West End Watch Ref.5159 ‘Bijou’ 1944 | Steel

With thick sides and an unusual twin-stepped flat bezel, the case design of this wristwatch is one that Longines incorporated into a few different references during the late 1930s and 1940s, these included both time-only and chronograph models. Despite its modest size (30.5mm diameter), the thickness and solidity of the case creates a bold look that gives the watch a surprising weight. The handsomely configured dial has black painted Arabic numerals and blued steel hands – there is oxidation, patination and some light scuffs and scratches to the surface.

Omega Genève Ref.166.041 circa 1968 | steel vintage automatic wristwatch

Omega Genève Ref.166.041 c.1968 | Steel

This is a rare version of the Ref. 166.041 with a matt black dial and matching black date ring. The applied indexes have satin finished surfaces and, like the baton hands, are centrally set with black panels. This design gives the watch a great monochrome look that is distinctly different from the standard version of this model. Ref. 166.041 was first introduced by Omega in 1968 and the serial number of the present watch places it towards the beginning of the model’s production. Although different versions of the model exist, the standard dial finish had a satin silvered surface.

Universal Cal. 264 circa 1945-1950 | steel & chrome mid-sized vintage wristwatch

Universal Genève Cal.264 c.1945-1950 | Steel/Chrome

A mid-sized Universal model, the rounded bezel, tear-drop lugs and Arabic numerals of this watch are typical of design elements popular during the mid- to late 1940s. Manually wound, the watch is powered by a crisp Universal calibre 264. There are two prominent scratches to the dial centre beneath the signature and some discolouration to the right-hand edge of the dial.

Swiss hallmarked 1924 | silver manually wound vintage wristwatch

Swiss Hallmarked 1924 | Silver

One of the earliest wristwatch designs, this type of model is based on the bassine-form pocket watch case which typically comprised of a rounded bezel and slightly domed case back, both of which were usually (as in this instance) hinged. The lugs have a simple wire framework which is soldered to the case to support a slim leather strap. To the side there is a lovely early knurled winding crown. The white enamel dial features the 12 o’clock painted in blue, an ‘accent’ adopted by early wristwatch dial manufacturers to act as a quick reminder of its position – this was due to the fact that, on an open-faced pocket watch, the 12 o’clock position was usually located beneath the winding crown, i.e. the 3 o’clock position on a wristwatch dial. The use of blue for the ’12’ is unusual – the accented ’12’ being more usually found in red.

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