Vintage Watch Update – 20th May 2016 | 20.5.16


This week’s newsletter opens with a rare and early Omega Ref. 2375 bumper automatic wristwatch which dates to c. 1945. The watch has a superb golden dial with applied gold Roman and baton indexes and matching gold feuille hands. The outer minute track has taken on a deep patina which creates a two-tone effect and the Omega signature has become partially ghosted, revealing the silver leaf Omega lettering beneath. Ref. 2375 incorporates Omega’s 28,10 RA calibre which is a slightly smaller variant of Omega’s first automatic calibre, the 30,10 RA. Like the 30,10, the 28,10 has the famous ‘bumper’ semi-rotor that buffers on two coiled springs within the movement whilst the watch is being worn, thereby activating the automatic winding system.


One of the great advantages of the bumper rotor was that it could be mounted flush with the movement’s backplate (see photo above right) rather than on top of the backplate as found in traditional rotor automatic watches, where the balance revolves around the full circumference of the movement. 


Next is a wonderfully monochrome Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King Ref. 5500 which dates to 1968. Reference 5500 was first introduced in 1957 and is a classic, automatically wound wristwatch. The robust stainless steel Rolex Oyster case has a smooth polished bezel and typical screw-down Rolex crown and case back. The dial of the present watch is in excellent original condition with a bright satin finished sheen. 


The Omega Seamaster de Ville wristwatch shown above is a Ref. 166.020 and dates to 1965. This version of the model has a great looking ‘machine’ textured dial with applied baton indexes and a date aperture at 3 o’clock. The watch has its original Omega crystal and crown. Powered by the excellent Omega calibre 562 movement, with 24 jewels and precision regulation, this watch also has provision for semi-quick date adjustment. Omega’s double model ‘branding’ of the Ref. 166.020 as a  Seamaster de Ville, emphasized the watch’s sporty nature (for which the Seamaster models were well-known) whilst also drawing on the watch’s classic, dress-style look which the “De Ville” range was introduced to represent.


Pictured above is a handsome 9ct yellow gold Omega wristwatch which is hallmarked for 1959. The silvered dial is in excellent original condition and has stylish and unusual, multi-faceted, wedge shaped, gold quarter hour markers. The slim 9ct yellow gold case has pronounced down-turned lugs. Manually wound, the watch is powered by an Omega calibre 520 with 17 jewels.


Omega introduced the Ref. 166.039 automatic Genève Dynamic in 1969. The example shown above has a mid-blue speckled dial that is in excellent condition. The large elliptical case is made from a single block of stainless steel and measures 41mm in width. Fitted with the original Omega Dynamic steel link bracelet, the watch is also accompanied by its red Omega strap changing tool; it is rare for the Dynamics to retain these original tools. Powered by the automatic Omega calibre 565 with 24 jewels and precision regulation, this watch also has provision for quick date change.


This stylish Longines Ref. 8888 wristwatch dates to circa 1960 and is accompanied by its original blue presentation box. The watch has a relatively large steel case for the period of production, with a diameter of 35mm. The silvered dial has a handsome combination of raised Arabic numerals at the quarters and incised pointed batons at the intervening hours. There is a warm and even patina to the dial and some oxidation spotting. The Longines calibre 30L movement is in lovely crisp condition. 


Above is a 9ct yellow gold lady’s Longines wristwatch which dates to 1975 and has a smart, full Arabic numeral dial. The numerals and hands have blackened surfaces which provide a contrast to the dial’s surface and increase their visibility. The 17 jewel, manually wound Longines movement is typical of the company’s high quality vintage production. We have fitted the watch with a Hirsch, lizard leather strap which has a slim profile and small scales that compliment the proportions of the watch.


And rounding off this update is a very stylish Omega De Ville, Ref. 111.022 which dates to c. 1965. This handsome, slim Omega dress watch incorporates the super-flat calibre 620 which has a movement height of just 2.5mm. The stainless steel case has a polished finish, a shallow chamfer to the bezel and straight lugs with faceted, down-turned ends. The satin finished silvered dial is in attractive condition with a bright surface and applied linear indexes. This watch is modestly sized at 31.5mm and looks great on the wrist. 

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