Vintage Watch Update – 1st December 2017 | 1.12.17

Opening this week’s newsletter is a great example of the Omega Speedmaster Professional – this is a “Full Set” Ref. 3570.5000. Directly from the original owner who purchased the watch new in 2013, this model is accompanied by all of its original accessories, including warranty card, omega instruction booklet, numbered swing tag, boxes and is fitted with its original, detachable, stainless steel link bracelet.

Measuring 42mm in diameter, this chronograph has a matt black dial with Luminova luminescent baton indexes and hands. The flat black bezel is calibrated for tachymeter and the steel case has flaring sides with combinations of polished and satin finishes. The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most iconic chronograph models ever made. Famously, it was a Speedmaster Professional that Buzz Aldrin wore when he stepped on the moon in 1969 – ever since, this model has been known as the Moon Watch.

Next is perhaps one of the least well-known of Longines’ vintage sports watches; a Ref. 7970, this is an unusual variant from Longines’ high beat Ultra-Chron line. A fantastic looking watch that is in outstanding condition, this watch is complete with its original Longines presentation box and guarantee booklet showing a date of sale in 1972. The black gloss dial is wonderfully preserved with a high sheen and vibrant colours. The uni-directional bezel has an acrylic insert with dark orange graduations for minutes and luminescent markers at 60/12, 15, 30 and 45. Designed to measure time elapsed, the bezel can be rotated to align with the orange minute hand. Once aligned, the orange hand can then be used to read minutes elapsed on the bezel.

This watch has clearly been stored for much of its life, showing signs of light use only. The luminescent markers both to the dial and bezel remain wonderfully fresh, the case and its acrylic insert retain excellent definition and the movement is exceptionally crisp.

Next is an extremely handsome Rolex Oyster Precision Ref. 6022 from 1953. This watch has a stunning dial with a light and even patina that has a wonderfully warm tone. Highly distinctive, the numerals are unusually incised into the surface of the dial and are composed of faceted Arabic, square and pointed baton indexes. Below the 12 o’clock position, the Rolex crown emblem is styled to match the numerals and is also recessed into the dial’s surface. The luminescent hands are also unusual with a broad Alpha shape. Cased in steel, this watch has a screw-down Rolex crown and case back.

Next is a fabulous mid-sized steel Omega from 1935. This is definitely on the small side of mid-size, but what it lacks in size, it certainly makes up for with bundles of character. The dial is in outstanding original condition with gilded numerals, tracks and hands. The watch is accompanied by its original Omega presentation case which folds out into a stand and contains a small cushion on which the watch sits. Manually wound, this watch incorporates Omega’s famous T17 tonneau shaped movement.

Heading even further back in time and above is one of the earliest Movado ‘Baby’ Ermetosto have ben made. Hallmarked for 1929, this superb travelling watch is made in silver with black lacquered sliding covers. This model also incorporates Movado’s ‘automatic’ case winding system that was patented in 1928, just one year prior to the date of this watch. As the sliding covers are opened, a pinion on the winding stem is engaged, which automatically turns the winding crown and winds the watch.

I’ve been trying to source a good example of one of these 1930s jump hour watches for some time. Jump hour or ‘digital display’ wristwatches quickly gained in popularity during the first half of the 1930s. Attribution for the brand or model of the watch shown above is difficult since, although the movement was made by Fontainemelon (whose FHF stamp appears to the movement’s top-plate), as a movement manufacturer that supplied retailers and watch brands with their ébauches, it is likely that this watch would have been sold under a different brand or model name. A number of brands advertised jumping hour watches during the 1930s and the design of the case and form of the apertures of this watch are very similar to a model advertised by Mimo in 1932. At the time of this watch’s production, it was still not unusual for there to be no brand or model name inscribed to the dial or case of a watch. Such a great Art Deco design – there’s no mistaking those stylised numerals. It’s really satisfying to watch the seconds disc constantly moving in the lowest aperture and the hours jumping forwards at the top of the hour.

Shown here is a c.1948 wristwatch by Marvin. This handsome mid-sized wristwatch has a silvered dial with pink foil numerals and outer decorative ring. There are matching pink gilded baton hands and a finely engine-turned subsidiary seconds dial. There is light and even oxidation to the surface of the dial. The steel case was made for Marvin by the Dennison case making company and is their model 12325. Marvin, or to give it its full name: Les Fils de H. A. Didisheim Fabrique Marvin, was originally founded in 1850 at St Imier, Switzerland, by the Frenchmen Marc and Emmanuel Didisheim.

Continuing with the 1940s theme and above is a 1947 Cyma wristwatch. This watch is actually cased in exactly the same case model as the Marvin above – although this time a 9ct gold variant of the Dennison 12325. The silvered dial has gilded/foil Arabic numerals and an engine-turned subsidiary seconds dial. The hands are of so-called ‘syringe‘ style, a distinctive design that was used by Cyma on a variety of their models during this period.  Cased in 9ct yellow gold, like many watches destined for the UK market, the case was made by Dennison and is their model reference 12325. The watch is accompanied by a retailer’s presentation case with silk lined interior signed by H. Pidduck & Sons of Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent.

Moving forwards a bit in time and from c. 1961 we have this automatic Omega Seamaster Ref. 14701-4. Made in stainless steel with a pink gold capped top….you’re not seeing double…the watch is fitted with its original pink gold plated bracelet which can be detached and replaced with a leather strap, as shown, if preferred. The dial is in excellent original condition with a wonderfully rich lustre and the pink gold capping to the upper case is in good overall condition with scuffs and scratches from wear. There is wear and stretch to the bracelet and the plating to the bracelet links has wear.

Pictured here is a 1969 lady’s rectangular Omega wristwatch made in 18ct yellow gold. A Ref. 511.212, this watch has a champagne dial with a smart, silk matt sheen. The case has combinations of polished and satin finishes and the case sides have finely ribbed detailing. This watch is accompanied by a red Omega presentation case.

And rounding off this newsletter is a classic stainless steel Omega Ref. 14753 from 1961. This watch is powered by the excellent Omega calibre 552 automatic movement. The silvered dial has applied faceted baton indexes and matching hands. There are some small spots to the dial.

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