Vintage Watch Update – 19 April 2022 | 18.3.22


Zodiac Autographic Ref.666 c.1950 | Steel

Despite continued improvements in the efficiency of automatic watches, by the 1940s many users remained unconvinced that automatic watches could keep themselves fully wound by wrist wear alone. To address this issue, in 1948 Zodiac introduced their Autographic model which featured what they termed a ‘Reserve Power Gauge’. The gauge allowed the user to quickly view, in hours, how much power was left in the watch’s mainspring; if the watch was running out of power, it could be quickly and easily ‘topped up’ by turning the winder in the usual manner. Power reserve indications, also known as ‘up-and-down’ were by no means a new feature and had been used for many years on both marine chronometers and deck watches, but the application to an automatic wristwatch was a clever and appealing development.

This is a very attractive example of Zodiac’s Autographic model, the dial has a rich lustre and strongly toned copper coloured Arabic and disc hour indexes. The sector for power reserve is calibrated for 36, 24, 12 and 0 hours and its subsidiary indicating hand points to the running time remaining. Cased in steel, the lugs are horn-shaped with a gentle flare and the case back is of screw-down type.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Ref. E385 hallmarked 1960 | 9ct gold vintage automatic wristwatch

Jaeger-LeCoultre Ref.E385 hallmarked 1960 | 9ct Gold

This smart Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch has a solid 9ct yellow gold case with smooth chamfered bezel and a satin finished screw-down case back. The dial has a minimalist design with applied, slim gold baton indexes and matching hands. Automatically wound, this watch is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s excellent calibre K880 which has decoratively finished, damascened plates. Calibre 880 was first introduced by LeCoultre in 1959, the year before this watch was made.

Telda circa 1950 | chrome and steel triple calendar wristwatch

Telda Triple Calendar c.1950 | Chrome & Steel

Bright and gleaming, this is a new/old stock Telda triple calendar wristwatch made in c.1950. A true time capsule, the watch appears exactly as it would have done when it left the Telda factory some 70 years ago. The days of the week and date automatically advance at midnight and the months require manual advancement at the start of each month via the pusher to the case side at the 2 o’clock position. Two further pushers at 4 o’clock and 10 o’clock respectively allow the quick manual advancement, if required, of the date and day.

Omega Genève Ref.166.041 c.1969 | Steel

Omega produced the Ref. 166.041 with a range of different dial options, the example shown above features one of the more unusual variations with broad raised indexes which have blackened surfaces with blue centres. The Omega signature and dial texts, together with the outer track for minutes/seconds and frame for the date aperture are all printed in blue – this is all in contrast to the standard 166.041 dials which feature black ink for the calibrations and dial texts. We have paired this Omega with a new dark blue Hirsch strap and the watch is accompanied by its original branded presentation box.

Longines Ref. 8319 -3 circa 1971 | steel manually wound vintage wristwatch

Longines Ref.8319 c.1971 | Steel

A classic vintage Longines wristwatch, the stainless steel case of this model has sharp clean lines. The unblemished dial is in excellent condition with bold faceted baton indexes which are centrally set with black inserts. Manually wound, the watch is powered by Longines’ excellent 17 jewel calibre 284.

Longines Cal. 12.68Z hallmarked 1949 | 9ct yellow gold manually wound wristwatch

Longines Cal.12.68Z hallmarked 1949 | 9ct Gold

A handsome late 1940s Longines wristwatch, this model has rounded case sides and distinctive elongated downturned lugs. The silvered dial has an attractive and unusual combination of gilded Roman and dot hour indexes. Manually wound, this watch is powered by Longines’ calibre 12.68Z movement.

Invicta Cal. 1215 circa 1950 | steel manually wound vintage wristwatch

Invicta Cal.1215 c.1950 | Steel

This mid-sized Invicta wristwatch has a stylish combination of Arabic and losenge-shaped hour indexes which have a warm gilded finish. The case is stainless steel and features a chamfered bezel and robust screw-down case back.

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