Vintage Watch Update – 17th February 2017 | 17.2.17

Headlining this week’s newsletter is a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref. 16014 which was made in c. 1983. The 16014 incorporates Rolex’s fast beat calibre 3035 which has provision for quick date change via a second crown setting. The model was launched in 1977 and was in production until 1988. It was the first Datejust model to feature quick date change – the crown has an additional setting allowing the user to quickly advance the date when required. The watch has a silvered, satin finished dial that is in excellent original

condition. Cased in stainless steel, the 16014’s bezel is made in white gold and has a fluted finish. As part of the watch’s service it has been pressure tested for water-resistance for depths up to 100 metres and is accompanied by inner and outer Rolex presentation cases, Datejust instruction booklet and Rolex plastic folder with further booklet.

Next is a Tudor Oyster Prince Ref. 7965 which has a silvered dial with unusual, circular, satin finish. There are applied arrow head indexes at the quarters and baton numerals at the intervening hours. The robust stainless steel Rolex Oyster case has a polished chamfered bezel and typical screw-down crown and case back. Dating to 1960, this is one of the first Tudor models to feature the engraved detailing to the outside case back reading: “Original Oyster Case by Rolex Geneva,” prior to this period, the outside case backs were plain. This watch is automatically wound and as part of its service it has been pressure tested for water-resistance up to 100 metres. We have fitted the watch with a handmade Christopher Clarke for Black Bough traditional wild boar leather watch strap in chocolate brown.

Shown above is a large sized Titus vintage chronograph wristwatch, made in c. 1950 with a case diameter of 37mm. The bezel is slim and therefore the dial is given the maximum surface area. With a very attractive black, silk matt finish, the dial has finely engine-turned subsidiary dials for constant seconds and 30-minute register. All tracks and numerals have a pink metallic finish which provide a great contrast to the black surface, whilst complimenting the tone of the 18ct pink gold case. In 1951 Titus was listed together with Sovil as Solvil & Titus SA, based in Geneva. The company was part of the famous firm of Paul Ditisheim – it’s founder and namesake was a highly talented watchmaker who was especially interested in the effects of magnetism on watchmaking. Paul Ditisheim left the Board of Solvil in 1929 and died in 1945. Solvil and Titus continued to make watches and in the 1950s, Titus was imported to the UK by F. Allen of London. Like many watch companies during this period, Titus bought in their chronograph ebauches and the movement of this watch was made by the chronograph manufacturer, Landeron.

The handsome Omega Seamaster shown above is a Ref. 2846 and was made in c. 1958. This watch has an excellent lustre to the silvered dial which is handsomely detailed with a cross-hair design to the centre. The applied, multi-faceted tapered indexes have recessed luminescent tips.  Cased in stainless steel, the watch has broad lugs with chamfered edges and the case back is centred with the Omega Seamaster logo. We have fitted this watch with a handmade Christopher Clarke for Black Bough traditional stirrup hide leather strap in chocolate brown.

Pictured here is an Omega Constellation Ref. 168.017 which dates to circa 1967. In 1964, Omega launched their first Constellation with the so-called “C” case, which earned its name from the case’s resemblance to two Cs. The “C” case was a departure from the more traditionally shaped Constellations of the 1950s and this model, the Ref. 168.017, continued this trend with its relatively slim case and combinations of satin and polished finishes. The silvered dial has a small surface mark at the minute track between the numerals at 11 and 12 o’clock but is otherwise in excellent original condition. The stainless steel case retains good definition to its angles and edges and the Constellation emblem to the centre of the case back is in crisp condition. Automatically wound, the watch is powered by an Omega calibre 564 which, when new, was chronometer rated. The movement also has provision for quick date change via a second crown setting. This watch is fitted with an Omega strap and steel Omega pin buckle.

Continuing with Omega and shown above is an Omega Dynamic Ref. 135.033 from c. 1969. This model has a deep black dial and applied faceted indexes. The unusual elliptical shape of the case and orange centre seconds hand enhance the model’s sporty design. The dial is in excellent condition and the upper case retains good definition, there are a couple of light scratches to the case back. The watch is fitted with a Dynamic leather strap and steel Omega pin buckle.

In lovely original condition and made in 1967, the 9ct yellow gold Tudor wristwatch shown above was presented to W. H. Thomas by the Directors of J & G Meakin for 50 years service and the case back is engraved accordingly. Meakin, founded in 1851, was one of the most famous names in English pottery production. In 1970, just two years after this watch was made, the firm was taken over by Wedgwood, however, production under the Meakin name continued until 2000. Interestingly, Meakin was based in Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent where the well-known retailer Henry Pidduck & Sons was selling watches by, amongst others, Rolex, Tudor and Omega, so it is very possible that Meakin had an arrangement with Pidduck for the supply of their long service watches.

This 1980s wristwatch is a Longines model commissioned by the Turkish State Railways (TCDD). The watch has an unusual grey textured dial which is detailed with the Turkish Railways’ logo above the 6 o’clock position. To the edge of the dial below 6 o’clock, the model’s reference number, 1659, is displayed together with Longines’ calibre number, 629. The watch is fitted with its original bracelet which has a finely ribbed clasp detailed with the TCDD abbreviation for the Turkish Railways. Automatically wound, the watch is powered by an ETA calibre 2892-2 which Longines named the L 629. This movement has a provision for quick date change via the crown’s first setting, there is also a hack feature which stops the seconds hand when the crown is put into the hand-set position, this allows the watch to be easily synchronised to a time signal.

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