Vintage Watch Update – 16th December 2016 | 16.12.16


Opening the last vintage watch update of 2016 is a lovely example of the original Patek Philippe Calatrava design – this is the Ref. 448, a mid-sized Calatrava, made in 1953. This is a rare version of the model with an 18ct pink gold case that retains excellent definition and has a wonderful, rich, coppery tone both to the case and the large, original, winding crown. Accompanied by an Extract from the Archives, the watch also retains its original, 18ct pink gold, Patek Philippe pin buckle.


The silvered dial has applied pink gold faceted/lapped indexes and the signature and subsidiary seconds track are fired in hard black enamel – this technique required the dial plate to be first engraved for the outline of the signature and subsidiary seconds before the enamel paint was applied and then fired, to harden it, in a specialist kiln; the enamelling is all wonderfully clear and in excellent condition. The outer minute track of the dial is a style known as ‘perlé’, a technique which requires each minute marker to be precision, diamond-drilled; this technique is of the highest quality and under magnification the symmetrical cone formed for each minute division is visible. The surface of the dial has some age related tonal variation to the lacquer.


Next is one of Cartier’s classic wristwatch designs, the Panthère. This is a lady’s model with a quartz movement and this example was originally sold in 2002. Both the case and bracelet have polished and satin finishes and the bracelet has a concealed, twin folding clasp.


The watch is in excellent condition and retains all its original accessories, including red document folder containing booklets and the original numbered certificate, as well as a red Cartier presentation case and the card outer box which carries the original serial label for this watch.


Next is an extremely handsome IWC wristwatch which was made in 1970. The watch is in great original condition and has a lovely silk matte finished dial with applied steel indexes with blackened surfaces and faceted sides. Large in size for the period of production, the case is made in stainless steel and measures 36mm in width. The case has a satin finished body and a polished, circular, chamfered bezel. The model uses the legendary IWC calibre 89, which is greatly favoured by collectors of the brand for its superior quality and finishing – it is also the calibre used by this watchmaker in their famous IWC military Mark XI. We have fitted the watch with a new Hirsch strap to which the original IWC pin buckle has been added.


Next is an absolutely stunning lady’s small Movado wristwatch which dates to the early 1940s. The watch has a superb black dial that has a rich lacquer to the surface with contrasting silver foiled Arabic numerals. The watch’s design is still heavily influenced by the Art Deco period and the stainless steel case has a curved upper body with polished chamfered edges and satin finished sides. The period, light tan stitched strap still retains a Movado sales tag.


Above is a rare version of the Rolex Ref. 6480 with a ‘herringbone’ sector dial which is dated for 1956. The style of the dial is reminiscent of the 1950s ‘honeycomb’ dial, yet the herringbone design creates a completely different look, quartering the dial in this way allows the light to play across its surface in a similar way to sector dials of the Art Deco period. The handsome combination Arabic and faceted dagger numerals further enhance the appeal of the dial’s design. As part of this watch’s service it has been pressure tested for water resistance for depths up to 100 metres. This watch has been fitted with a handmade Christopher Clarke for Black Bough shell cordovan leather strap.


Pictured here is a Tudor/Rolex Oyster Prince, Ref. 7995 which dates to circa 1968. The watch has a satin finished silvered dial with unusual applied indexes that have black inserts to their centres and polished outer squares at their tips. The stainless steel Rolex Oyster case has a smooth bezel and typical screw-down Rolex crown and case back. Automatically wound, the watch is powered by the 25 jewel calibre 2483. As part of this watch’s service and overhaul, it has been pressure tested for water resistance for depths up to 100 metres.


Shown next is a slim rectangular watch by Zenith which dates to circa 1980. In excellent original condition, this wristwatch appears to have been only very lightly used. The watch has an unusual, vertically striped, silver dial composed of satin and polished strips. Cased in stainless steel, the upper body has a curved, polished profile. This watch is accompanied by the original Zenith swing tag which is stamped with the watch’s serial number and the black Zenith presentation case which has a red lined interior.


Pictured above is a classic Omega wristwatch from 1957. This model is cased in steel and has a silvered dial that is fully set with applied Arabic numerals. There are oxidation and age related marks to the dial, but the dial has a good lustre and a handsome vintage look. This model is powered by the calibre 267, which is from Omega’s excellent ’30’ series.


Also by Omega is the 920 reference shown here. This model was manufactured with a variety of different dial designs, the present example has an unusual variation of the full applied Arabic numeral dial, with the numerals given a more ‘squared’ shape than the more rounded styles usually found on these models. The dial is in good original condition with a handsome lustre and large engine-turned subsidiary seconds dial. The 9ct yellow gold case is extremely classic in design with a polished chamfered bezel, gently down-turned lugs and flat, snap-on, back. Accompanying the watch is the original Omega tan leather presentation case which folds out to form a stand. This watch has been fitted with a Christopher Clarke for Black Bough traditional wild boar skin leather strap in dark brown.


In excellent original condition, this lady’s Cyma cocktail watch has an elegant upper case with decoratively moulded lugs. Made in circa 1955, the silvered dial has raised pink gold coloured Arabic and triangular numerals and matching hands. Manually wound, the watch is powered by a 17 jewel, Cyma calibre R.384K.


Above is an Omega Genève Ref. 131.019 which the company first introduced in 1962 – the present example dates to circa 1968. The watch has a relatively slim profile and a handsome silvered dial with a satin finish. Manually wound, this model is powered by Omega’s calibre 601 movement. The new Hirsch leather strap has been fitted with the watch’s original steel Omega pin buckle.


And rounding off this newsletter is a 9ct yellow gold Garrard wristwatch, made in 1982. An automatically wound watch, the movement is an ETA calibre 2892 with hack feature – when the crown is pulled out to alter the time, the seconds hand will stop, thereby allowing the watch to be easily synchronised. The date will advance each day at midnight but it also has provision for quick date change via a secondary crown setting.

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