Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Chronometer Ref. 1500 steel vintage wristwatch, dated 1964
Vintage Watch Update – 14th July 2017 | 14.7.17

Vintage Watch Update No. 115

This week’s newsletter opens with an excellent and early example of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1500. Dated for 1964, the watch has inwardly tapering indexes with chamfered edges and the quarter markers at 6 and 9 o’clock have multi-faceted surfaces. The hands are of dauphine design rather than the straight baton design that became the standard configuration for later examples of the model. The stainless steel case retains good definition with steep chamfered bezel and typical satin finished down-turned lugs. This watch is from the family of the original owner and is sold with a green Rolex wood and leather presentation case.

Next is a smart Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch from 1947 which has a rare copper coloured dial, the outer chapter ring which carries the numerals is finished with a finely engine turned surface which produces a satin finish and contrasts with the higher sheen of the dial’s centre. The modestly sized 32mm case is super crisp and the flaring lugs are particularly beautiful. Although there are age related marks/oxidation to the dial, the watch is in otherwise excellent original condition showing little sign of use. Indeed, although we have fitted the watch with a new handmade brown lizard watch strap, the watch is also accompanied by what is almost certainly the original black leather watch strap which has a Montal buckle of a type often supplied with Jaeger-LeCoultre watches of this period….and yes I hear you…why have I changed the strap?…well frankly the original is brash and rather unattractive and in my opinion does nothing for the watch.

Above is an early and unusual version of the Ref. 720 which Omega made specifically for the UK market using their fantastic calibre 30T2 movement. Dating to 1945, what’s especially interesting about this watch – other than the fairly fabulous full Arabic numeral dial – is that the case is made from duralumin and steel. The serial number of the watch makes it the earliest example of the 720 style that we’ve offered for sale and it is contemporaneous with the Ref. 2292 models that Omega made in duralumin and steel for the Air Ministry. So far as I’m aware, all later version of the 720 model were made in purely steel cases, always by Dennison with the Dennison style number 13322 to the inside back. Like the 2292, this example of the 720 has fixed bar lugs and the duralumin mid case has a rugged appearance, being softer and more prone to nicks and scratches than its steel bezel and case back.

Above is a relatively large vintage model by Longines, this wristwatch has a diameter of 35.5mm and is hallmarked for 1973. The very handsome, satin finished, silvered dial is in excellent original condition with raised, gilded, Arabic and baton numerals. To the base of the dial is a cross-hair subsidiary seconds dial. The solid 9ct yellow gold case has a polished finish and the watch is powered by Longines’ calibre 6922.

In lovely condition, the Omega Genève Dynamic pictured here was made in 1969 with a handsome deep blue dial and contrasting light blue centre seconds hand. The large elliptical case is made from a single block of stainless steel and measures 41mm in width. The watch is fitted with a signed Omega crystal and crown and a dark blue Omega Dynamic leather strap with original steel Omega pin buckle. This watch is is accompanied by its original red Omega presentation case.

Next is another of Omega’s Genève models, this one a Ref. 136.041 made in 1970. The satin finished dial is in excellent original condition with a light grey tone and linear baton numerals which have black inserts to their centres. The stainless steel, tonneau form case has a satin finished bezel and screw-down case back. Manually wound, the watch is powered by the Omega calibre 613 which has provision for quick date change via a second setting to the crown.

Next up is an unusual Omega De Ville, Ref. 111.5084 which is made in 9ct yellow gold and hallmarked for 1970. The silvered dial has applied horizontal indexes with contrasting vertical indexes at 12 and 6 o’clock. The surface of the silvered dial has been restored.

And rounding of this week’s newsletter is a solid 9ct yellow gold wristwatch by Garrard. In lovely overall condition this watch is hallmarked for 1975. The watch is classically styled with a silk matte, satin finished dial with raised gilded Arabic numerals and a finely engine-turned subsidiary seconds dial. The gold case retains good definition and was made for Garrard by David Shackman & Sons whose other clients included Rolex and Longines. The movement is the highly regarded Unitas calibre 6325 with 17 jewels which is handsomely finished with gilded damascened bridges.

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