Opening this week’s newsletter is a super smart dress watch by the International Watch Company. Made in 18ct yellow gold this IWC model has a slim profile and the lugs are minimised, thereby allowing the circular shape of the case to dominate. To achieve this, the lugs are designed to sit beneath the base of the bezel and the extremity of the bezel reaches 1mm beyond the length of the lugs at either end of the case; together with a recess to the underside of the case, this ensures that the ends of the leather strap are concealed beneath the edges of the case – in other words, there is no gapping between strap and watch case.
The watch is powered by a beautifully finished IWC calibre 402 which has decoratively damascened movement plates.
This stylish Universal model dates to c.1962 and has an unusual silvered dial with a lightly swirling satin finish. The aperture for date is tapered outwards towards the edge of the case and the original plexiglass has a similarly tapered magnifier above the date window. The case retains excellent definition to the upper body with sharp lugs and bezel, there are some light scuffs/scratches to the back of the case. Fitted with the original signed Universal strap and steel buckle.
Coming Soon! To be published in September 2019 this is my book which looks at the stylistic history of the watch in the 20th century. Arranged chronologically the book is illustrated with hundreds of high quality photographs sourced from auction houses such as Sotheby’s as well as from museum collections of the finest watch manufacturers…stay tuned…more will be revealed in the coming weeks. Further details can be found on our website where you can also pre-order your copy.
Omega introduced the automatic Ref.166.039 Genève Dynamic in 1969. This example of the model has a very attractive black dial with matching black date ring. Elliptically shaped, the case is relatively large for a vintage model and retains excellent definition with the original satin, sunburst finishing to the bezel. A couple of the luminescent dots above the numerals are worn but the dial surface itself is in excellent condition. The Omega branded leather strap is vintage and may well be the original, and this is also fitted with a steel Omega buckle.
This Seamaster model has an unusual machine textured dial. The stainless steel case retains its original signed Omega crown and crystal and the case back is centred with the Seamaster logo. The stainless steel uni-shell case is composed of a solid, single body, the movement being accessed by removal of the bezel, crystal and crown/stem. By limiting the number of case parts and negating the need for a removable case back, the risk of dirt and moisture entering the watch were greatly reduced.
Reference 166.041 was first introduced by Omega in 1968. The model incorporates the excellent automatic Omega calibre 565 movement with 24 jewels and precision regulation. Calibre 565 includes provision for fast date adjustment via a secondary crown setting. This example of the model features a blue satin finished dial with raised indexes and contrasting white hands with an orange centre seconds. The stainless steel two-piece case has satin finished surfaces and a screw-down case back.
With a pleasing action, the front cover of this purse watch slides open, thereby releasing the inner case which is hinged and springs upwards to a fixed, angled position; this places the watch in an ideal position for viewing when placed on a desk or bedside. The front, back and sides of the case all have a decoratively ribbed, machined finish and there is an applied gold monogram to the cover. Most unusually this watch has the retailer’s name of Fortnum and Mason in London. The dial has strong two-toning and a very attractive Art Deco numeral configuration.
Made for the UK market, this gold Omega wristwatch has a silvered dial that is fully set with applied gold Arabic numerals. This watch comes directly from the original owner’s family and is accompanied by its red Omega presentation case. The dial retains a good lustre and there is some minor spotting to the surface and some scuffing to the subsidiary seconds dial.
This early 1970s Longines model houses the watchmaker’s movement calibre 6952 which incorporates an unusual hack feature: when the crown is pulled out to adjust the hands, the seconds hand will continue running until it reaches the 12 o’clock position – it will then stop. When the hands have been synchronised to the desired time and the crown is pressed back towards the case, the seconds hand will immediately restart. A quick date-set feature is also incorporated via a second setting to the winding crown – when the crown is pulled out to the first position, the date can be manually advanced. In good original condition, the dial has an excellent lustre to the surface and the steel case remains in unpolished condition with sharp angles and edges. The bezel retains its original sunburst satin finish with some light scuffs to the top of the lower left lug.
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