Gold capped Tissot Navigator Ref. 4002-2 World Time vintage wristwatch, circa 1952
A superb gold capped and steel automatic world-time wristwatch with two-tone dial and indications for 24 world locations/time zones
In exceptional, un-polished, original condition, this is an outstanding example of the Tissot Navigator with a stunning two-tone dial. One of the most iconic and important vintage models produced by this watchmaker, the Tissot Navigator is a large automatic wristwatch with indications for 24 world locations. The release of the Navigator in 1951 was overseen by Louis-Edouard Tissot who had returned to Switzerand from Argentina upon the death of his cousin, Paul Tissot. In 1930, Tissot had merged with Omega and the influence of Omega can clearly be seen in the calibre 28.5-N21 movement of this watch which is extremely similar in design, layout and finishing to Omega’s early bumper automatic movements. Based on Tissot’s first automatic calibre (the 28.1) which had been launched in 1944, the calibre 28.5-N21 was specifically made for the Navigator and featured an additional pusher which allowed the uncoupling of the central World-Time disc to allow the local time to be set.
The time is read in the usual 12-hour format against the outer black track, which has corresponding hour numerals to the bezel. This track is calibrated to 60 in the usual fashion and there are thicker batons at each hour (or 5 minute) increment. The inner revolving disc is calibrated in blue for 24 world locations, the time in each location is indicated against the applied Arabic and triangular numerals which are divided into 24-hours. To select the local time, the crown should be pulled out into the hand-set position and the inner disc should be rotated until the current city/location is lined up beneath the 24-hour numeral/12 o’clock position. When this has been set, the pusher above the crown should then be pressed inwards until it ‘clicks’, thereby disengaging the central disc, the hands should then be moved to 24-hour numeral/12 o’clock position. Pressing the crown inwards will re-activate the central world time disc and the actual time can then be set. For a demonstration of the settings, please see the video below.
This watch has been fitted with a handmade Christopher Clarke for Black Bough traditional dark brown lizard skin leather strap.
[M] Tissot calibre 28.5-N21 automatic movement, lever escapement, 17 jewels, the pink gilded semi-circular satin and polished finished rotor buffering on coiled springs, 19,800 BPH, compensation balance, Incabloc shock absorber [D] two-part silvered dial, the central silvered disc with 24 world locations indicated in blue and with slim batons to indicate time on the outer high sheen silvered chapter ring with applied gold Arabic and faceted triangular numerals, outermost black minute/hour track [C] gold capped upper case with broad down-turned lugs, chamfered bezel with incised black enamel Arabic and triangular numerals for local time indication, world-time disc adjusting pusher above the crown, stainless steel screw-down case back [S] case, dial and movement signed
Diameter excluding winding crown: 36mm
Length including lugs: 44mm
Depth to centre of crystal: 12mm
Strap width/lug gauge: 18mm
All our watches have been fully serviced and overhauled and are sold with a one year guarantee and detailed Black Bough certificate. This watch is sold with a Black Bough leather watch pouch and card outer box.