Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co. circa 1920 | platinum vintage dress watch
Platinum is one of the most desirable metals used in the production of watch cases. Extremely hard wearing, heavy and resistant to corrosion, it is also favoured for its silvery-white appearance. Both expensive and challenging to work with, the use of platinum has always been reserved for casing the finest watches.
The popularity of extra slim dress watches grew during the 1910s and the vogue continued as the Art Deco movement gained momentum during the 1920s. The 1920s also witnessed greater experimentation in the design and layout of the watch dial. Clearly delineating the dial between hours and minutes enabled a more precise and easier means of reading the time. On this watch, the length of the minute hand is exaggerated as it stretches to the finely pearled minute track at the dial’s edge. The bold Roman numerals for the hours are enhanced by the high sheen of the chapter ring on which they sit. Similar dial designs can also be found on watches from this period by Cartier. This layout owes something to the so-called ‘regulator’ dials found on clocks and some watches whereby a small subsidiary dial displays the hours but with the minutes shown as usual to the dial’s edge.
The Swiss movement is unsigned but beautifully finished and of exceptional quality. The reference to ‘Grand Prix Paris 1900’ on the bridge refers to a prize given to the maker at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. Such accolades continued to be engraved on watches for many years after the presentation of awards. The crest to the case back is that of a Griffin rampant holding sword in pale.
[M] extra flat Swiss 16”’ rhodium plated manual movement, jewelled to the centre, lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance, engraved ‘Grand Prix Paris 1900’, unsigned
[D] silvered matt finished dial, high sheen engine-turned chapter ring with black Roman numerals, pearled outer minute ring, blued steel moon hands
[C] slim platinum case with rounded bezel, snap-on case back with the crest of a Griffin rampant holding sword in pale
[S] dial signed The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co. Ltd. 112 Regent Street W
52mm height including pendant
6mm depth to centre of glass
One Year Guarantee – this watch has been fully serviced
Black Bough leather pocket watch pouch & Black Bough certificate